The Best Clothing Brands of 2023

Supreme

Standout Moments: Collaborating with Undercover, a NBA Youngboy campaign, and a Nike SB collaboration with Rammellzee

Supreme barely pulled itself out of a car fire this year. “Supreme Is Dead” flooded our timelines like “dinner with Jay-Z” tweets. Quarterly reports released by VF Corp. proved the brand’s revenue was declining. And Tremaine Emory’s thunderous exit as the label’s creative director drummed up heated conversations and criticism about Supreme’s relationships with Black creatives. If there was a time for Supreme’s reputation to be questioned, it came right on the eve of the brand’s 30th anniversary.

Emory's year and half stint at Supreme wasn’t like Raf Simons at Calvin Klein—who transformed the heritage underwear label during his two-year stint as the chief creative officer. Even with Emory making history as the first named creative director, Supreme didn’t deviate from what it normally does. And despite their disagreements over a contentious collaboration with Arthur Jafa—centered on images of lynched black men and whipped slaves—Emory aimed to infuse energy into a brand losing ground in streetwear.

However, Supreme, with or without Emory, continues to enchant a loyal fan base eagerly anticipating seasonal lookbooks, unique collaborations, and playful accessories. Despite Emory’s dramatic departure, his two seasons will be remembered as some of the brand's best in years because of memorable releases that weren’t just collaborations or box logo hoodies. Those varsity jackets and hoodies designed by Cactus Plant for its Spring/Summer 2023 collection—FYI, our love for these pieces has nothing to do with Cactus creative-directing ComplexCon for all the streetwear conspiracy theorists out there. And the denim this year? True, Denim Tears’ cotton wreaths got the streets in a chokehold. But Supreme’s distressed jeans and Japanese Boro–inspired pieces would make the snobbiest archivist look away from their Undercover 85s.

Supreme now seems like an “old-head” streetwear brand, but it’s still carefully balancing its appeal to longtime supporters while also introducing a younger generation to its tribe. Supreme Tamagotchis and an NBA YoungBoy photo T-shirt are unquestionably targeting zoomers who likely don’t care much for an MF Doom collaboration or a ‘90s-inspired Coogi link-up. But that’s the thing: Supreme masterfully caters to both crowds. And it still manages to drop the most esoteric artist collaborations in streetwear while maintaining a respected skateboard team.

Yes, Supreme may not be the same brand we once knew and is currently facing some growing pains. But despite a tumultuous year, Supreme made it out alive. Scathed, yet still breathing. —Lei Takanashi

Aimé Leon Dore

Standout Moments: Re-opening its renovated flagship in New York City and growing its collaborative partnerships with New Balance and Porsche

Whether you categorize it as a streetwear brand, a menswear label, or something in between, there are few companies consistently delivering like Aimé Leon Dore. Throughout 2023, the brand found ways to refresh their signatures. Now its New Balance 550s are family friendly coming in infant, toddler, and kid sizing. They also got in on the mesh runner trend by dropping multiple pairs of the 860v2 that were a constant presence on our Instagram feed. Even its New York flagship on Mulberry Street, which has become a hotspot for a certain subset of the city’s fashion crowd, got a facelift. But all of this means nothing if the clothes aren’t good. And they are. Standouts this year have included elevated takes on sportswear like knit cycling jerseys, and a show-stopping racing jacket that even ended up on LeBron James in the NBA pregame tunnel. There are a lot of people who are quick to scoff at ALD and use the brand’s aesthetic as a punchline. But at the end of the day, that type of criticism just comes with the territory. Don’t let the memes fool you. There’s a reason why so many brand’s visuals mirror ALD’s campaigns. The recipe that Teddy Santis and company have concocted, a brand that feels as attainable as it does aspirational, is working. And with LVMH’s power and infrastructure backing it, don’t expect the trajectory to slow down any time soon. —Mike DeStefano

Joe Freshgoods

Standout Moments: Using his New Balance partnership to shed light on his favorite aspects of Black history and using his platform to give back to the Chicago community

When we first highlighted Joe Freshgoods on this list in 2020, he was fresh off one of his strongest years to date that began his trajectory from a local Chicago legend to one of streetwear’s most recognizable figures. He hasn’t slowed down since. Throughout 2023, his sneaker collabs have stayed on point. His limited run of “Stuntman” 650s, which harken back to a young Michael Jordan wearing New Balances, and an upcoming trio of 990s paying tribute to Hype Williams’ cult-classic film Belly are among the best storytelling moments of the year.

As amazing as the sneakers are, don’t forget to check out the apparel he’s been cooking up. Don’t expect to just see matching graphic T-shirts and hoodies accompanying his drops. His Spring 2023 collection marked one of his most well-rounded offerings with pieces like a sherpa quarter-zip covered in an outdoorsy all-over graphic and shorts covered in a custom camo pattern. A winter-themed Vans collaboration spotlighted the Green Book—a guide used by African-American travelers in the ‘40s, ‘50s, and ‘60s to locate Black-friendly businesses—and featured solid cut and sew pieces, such as striped mohair cardigans and cargo pants. And don’t forget this Avirex jacket that we’ve been clamoring for since he teased it on Instagram. Clothing aside, Joe Freshgoods also hasn’t forgotten about the Chicago community that’s been riding with him since day one. In March, his nonprofit, Community Goods, partnered with the Chicago Blackhawks to launch a store at Michele Clark High School in Chicago that allows students to redeem points earned for good behavior and grades on special apparel and supplies. Joe Freshgoods is a testament to what can happen if you remain authentic and consistent. We can’t wait to see what big wins he gets to celebrate next. —Mike DeStefano

Awake NY

Standout Moments: Opening its first brick-and-mortar store in New York City, designing its own Asics silhouette, and a memorable lookbook for its collaboration with Carhartt WIP

In New York, the popular nativist maxim "you wasn't there" is frequently uttered by older heads when waxing poetic about whatever era they consider to be the pinnacle of New York culture. But by virtue of time, the new jacks eventually become the OGs. And with all due respect, if you missed Awake NY's store opening party this summer, an old-head two decades from now wearing an Awake NY Yankee fitted will hit you with that classic "you wasn't there" line when reflecting on one of New York City's biggest store openings.

Awake's flagship is more than a brick-and-mortar; it's a testament to Angelo Baque's dedication to building a community that’s larger than his clothing brand—a commitment that’s continuously defined Awake's success. Hip-hop legends like Rakim appear in lookbooks alongside emerging designers like Victor Vegas, the founder of the indigenous-owned label Primer Rebelde de América. A campaign for its Asics collab was shot in South Ozone Park, Queens and Fordham Road in the Bronx. UFC fighter Chito Vera was captured in front of immigrant-owned food trucks on Roosevelt Avenue. Awake makes New Yorkers of diverse backgrounds feel seen. And that’s compelling for many who feel they’ve only been culture vultured by the streetwear industry.

It isn't just about Awake pedestaling its comunidad; we must still give props to its great clothing. Awake is still releasing seasonal collections that offer a solid mix of casual menswear and classic streetwear. And it didn’t skimp on footwear, debuting its own original Asics silhouette aptly dubbed the Gel-NYC, finally releasing a Converse One Star they’ve been teasing for years, and even unveiling a future Nike Air Ship collaboration. There are also great collaborations with brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Union, and Denim Tears.

With that community in lockstep, Baque is shaping a distinct identity for Awake. Frankly, the brand’s position in streetwear could be aptly described with that surreptitiously tucked throw-up by JA hiding behind the clothing racks in its new store. It’s a totem by a legendary New York City graffiti writer that screams another loud New York maxim: “If you know, you know.” —Lei Takanashi

Fear of God

Standout Moments: Holding its first fashion show at the Hollywood Bowl, debuting Fear of God Athletics, and its continued ubiquity of Essentials in the modern wardrobe

2023 was a year of firsts for Jerry Lorenzo. In April, he invited guests to the Hollywood Bowl in Los Angeles for the spectacle that was Fear of God’s debut runway show. Performances by Sampha and Pusha T bookended a collection that exemplified FOG’s modern approach to luxury through suede coats with ropes cinching the waist, and boxy yellow blazers that provided pops of color amid Fear of God’s signature earthy palette. Lorenzo choosing to host the show in Los Angeles rather than a fashion hub like Paris or Milan sent a powerful message: Fear of God wasn’t afraid to do things on its own terms. In December, the brand finally released the first pieces from its highly anticipated Fear of God Athletics line with Adidas, which was announced three years ago. The collection fits in perfectly with Fear of God’s established codes. The refined take on sportswear, which include highlights like heavy polar fleece half-zips and an oversized goalie jersey made of French tricot fabric, prove that Lorenzo has created a design language that can be reinterpreted in numerous ways. That makes Fear of God’s growth potential limitless. No wonder Lorenzo thinks it could be as big as Jordan Brand. Of course, there’s still the Essentials line that, while some may consider played out, is ubiquitous. Oftentimes, designers that have accomplished as much as Lorenzo will enter a new chapter of their career by accepting roles at established luxury houses. Lorenzo doesn’t seem as interested in that route. Instead, he’s building Fear of God into a modern luxury powerhouse of its own. So far, he’s succeeding. —Mike DeStefano

Denim Tears

Standout Moments: Releasing Cotton Wreath Sweatsuits, an ongoing collaboration with Levi’s, and a collaboration with Offset

How many “Cotton Wreath” sweatsuits can Denim Tears sell online in a single 15-minute drop? Thirty thousand. Yep, Denim Tears made an estimated $12 million off just one drop this year. And when Tremaine Emory sold the sweatsuits at dry cleaners in New York and Los Angeles for a one-day pop-up, pandemonium ensued on both coasts. Cops even ended up shutting down the pop-up in New York City.

“For some sweatsuits?” “For Denim Tears?” Folks on the Internet had these questions after sharing footage of crowds nearly trampling each other to get inside a small dry cleaning spot in Downtown Manhattan. Although it seems like everyone is buying Denim Tears just because of hyped Cotton Wreaths, Emory is still captivating its audience by committing to his mission, which is to use his label as a vehicle to celebrate Black culture.

Despite Denim Tears’ storytelling largely being overshadowed by the neverending hype for Cotton Wreaths (brace yourself when the pre-orders for those flame-orange Offset ones ship), Emory still released some compelling collections. His work with the Black-owned skateboard label Neighbors shed light on Leimert Park, a historically Black neighborhood in Los Angeles that’s currently battling gentrification. Its capsule with Our Legacy and Tupac Shakur’s estate took a novel approach by celebrating the rapper’s iconic style through cut and sew rather than graphic apparel. A Levi’s collection inspired by Black motorcycle riders launched with a short documentary and at the soft opening of Denim Tears’ first flagship store in New York City.

It’s fitting for Denim Tears to take over 176 Spring Street, a storefront previously occupied by both Union and Stüssy, respectively. That’s because Denim Tears is carrying the torch, producing streetwear with substance and a tribe. While the hype for Denim Tears’ Cotton Wreath merch might make the brand feel played out to some, remember that it planted the seeds for the brand’s foundation. And only greatness will sprout from that soil. —Lei Takanashi

Grace Wales Bonner

Standout Moments: Adidas x Wales Bonner Samba collaboration, “Artist’s Choice: Spirit Movers” exhibition at the MoMA, accessories launch, and designing kits for the Jamaican soccer teams Reggae Girlz and Reggae Boyz

Designer Grace Wales Bonner continues to expand her presence in thoughtful ways. The Wales Bonner luxury brand is the foundation, and her desire to showcase different stories from the African diaspora was beautifully showcased with her seasonal collections this year. The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection contemplated artists like James Baldwin and Josephine Baker’s sojourn to Paris with beautifully tailored clothes. And for her Spring/Summer 2024 show, she explored long-distance runners and presented considered and sophisticated garments with a hint of ease. She also takes that approach with her wildly popular Adidas collaboration, which imbues the classic Samba silhouette with interesting details (crochet, faux fur, satin insoles, and unconventional finishes) that consumers want. But her brand is much more than clothes and footwear. Because her point of view is so strong, different institutions and artists have wanted to work with her in various ways. She’s made custom pieces for the National Youth Dance Company’s performance of Wayne McGregor’s “Novacene.” She worked with Solange on a capsule collection to celebrate the Eldorado Ballroom Spring Music Series at the Brooklyn Academy of Music. And she curated the “Artist’s Choice: Spirit Movers” exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Being in this roundup typically means you make product that moves the needle, but Wales Bonner is using product to tell stories that are often unseen in the context of fashion and luxury. Her perspective, and her creations, are greatly needed. —Aria Hughes

Corteiz

Standout Moments: Releasing a trio of regionally exclusive Air Max 95s, memorable shock drops, and cinematic commercials directed by Walid Labri

“Marketing” is the word mentioned in nearly every conversation about the British streetwear label Corteiz. It’s either celebrated by fans who get an adrenaline rush from its gamified approach to drops or questioned by others who view it as publicity stunts to build hype.

The release of Corteiz’s highly coveted Nike Air Max 95s created a Beatlemania-like frenzy within streetwear. Its first major brand collaboration introduced the world to Corteiz’s real-time scavenger hunts and took everyone back to out-of-control IRL sneaker drops. We’re talking about security guards pulling knives on sneaker fiends begging for wristbands to enter a bodega selling “Pink Beam'' Air Maxes, and a release so chaotic in Paris that attendees were snuffing each other out for “Les Bleus,” being wheeled out to ambulances, and urging the Deputy Mayor of Paris to call off similar drops from occurring in the future.

Even if Corteiz’s Nike collaboration eclipsed everything else the brand did this year, it got the masses to start recognizing a streetwear label with a distinctly Black British perspective.

That vision is seen in lookbooks shot by photographers like Christopher Currence spotlighting Black creatives in Corteiz’s global community, such as Tobias McIntosh of Crenshaw Skate Club and emerging New York City rappers like Niontay. It’s expressed through tongue-in-cheek commercials directed by Walid Labri that boast superb cinematograhy while putting everyone on to British Caffs or rally racing in Wales. Now that Clint419 has familiarized the world with “Lundun” and “Ingerland,” it’s only right that Corteiz was nominated for the New Establishment Menswear award by the British Fashion Council this year alongside designers like Bianca Saunders, Saul Nash, and Nicholas Daley. Some may scoff that such a prestigious award would be considered for a logo-driven label. But even if Corteiz is not presenting runway shows, it’s still telling a distinct story that hasn’t really been told before. —Lei Takanashi

Bottega Veneta

Standout moments: ASAP Rocky paparazzi campaign, Orbit unisex sneaker, and seasonal collections that lean into craftsmanship and variety

Matthieu Blazy, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, had a tall task ahead of him when his former boss, Daniel Lee, left the brand abruptly. Lee conjured up a renewed excitement around the Italian luxury fashion house during his tenure (2018-2021) with eye-catching accessories, a signature green color, and statement making clothes. How do you maintain the momentum and do something different without alienating the consumer base Lee cultivated? It’s a challenge but Blazy stepped up in his own way and has kept our attention with a focus on craft, strong accessories, and interesting celebrity tie-ins. The collections have been standouts each season, with Blazy presenting a variety of clothes that push textile innovation and craftsmanship but don’t feel too precious. This translated to the Bottega Veneta x ASAP Rocky campaign, which started out as paparazzi shots of Rocky wearing different looks from the line as he ran around LA—he took photographers for a jog while wearing an all leather Bottega sweatsuit. Blazy’s also found his own voice with accessories, making popular pieces like the eardrop earrings that have been duped to death (always a sign of great design), and the mesh Orbit sneakers, which have been worn by celebrities like Lil Yachty, Hailey Bieber, and Stefon Diggs. We also appreciate the storytelling Blazy does off the runway, like the zine dedicated to Kate Moss that featured scans from a binder he kept as a teenager. Blazy’s managed to reinvent Bottega Veneta in his own way and his efforts are paying off.—Aria Hughes

Stüssy

Standout Moments: Introducing a collaboration with Martine Rose and adding to its collection of collabs with partners like Nike and Our Legacy

When you have been around for as long as Stüssy, it can be challenging to keep customers excited. Yet Stüssy has continuously found a way to attract younger consumers without alienating its longtime supporters. The smart collaborations certainly help. Collabs with popular brands like Nike and Birkenstock feed the urge for trendy, hyped-up products. On the flip side, the brand will work with cult-favorite labels such as Sweden's Our Legacy for upcycled gear tailored for the California coastline, and industry favorites like London designer Martine Rose for releases focused on UK car culture. In between the consistent collabs are Stüssy’s bread and butter, well-crafted staple pieces that can live in your closet for years (we’re still thinking about this leather work jacket). Frankly, it’s a bit surprising for an independent streetwear brand to have Stüssy’s trajectory without being acquired by a major corporation and losing everything that made it feel special. Stüssy is the exception. Its legacy is solidified. It could easily rest on its laurels and keep raking in dough selling logo T-shirts and hoodies. Instead, it’s still making a concerted effort to evolve. With a mindset like that, maybe it isn’t such a surprise that Stüssy has been around for 40-plus years after all. —Mike DeStefano

Louis Vuitton

Standout Moments: A collection guest-designed by KidSuper and appointing Pharrell as the creative director of menswear

Since Virgil Abloh’s death in 2021, many wondered how Louis Vuitton would transition into its next era. This year, the French luxury house initiated that process and continues to thrive as a luxury house known for bold and surprising moves.

In January, Louis Vuitton shocked the world by tapping Colm Dillane of KidSuper as its first-ever guest designer for a seasonal runway collection. It was a turning point for Dillane, who built a cult following as a fashion underdog known for designing playful and elegant garments centered on his own artwork. Dillane’s collection for LV riffed off Abloh’s boyhood narrative but still created a distinct moment for the brand by blending his own whimsical design language with the house's atelier—think “Letter bags” designed to look like a stack of letters held together by string. Granted Dillane’s presentation felt more like a livestreamed Rosalía performance sponsored by LV than a fashion show with a nuanced theme, it was still refreshing to finally see a different perspective at Louis Vuitton.

In another unexpected move by Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams became its new creative director of menswear in February. This decision divided the fashion industry, seen by some as a watershed moment for hip-hop's influence on high fashion and by others as a marketing ploy tied to celebrity. Pharrell was clear about his vision for Louis Vuitton from day one, telling press before his debut Spring/Summer 2024 show that he was designing products for luxury clients like himself. While Abloh’s Vuitton was known for tapping into a gamut of subcultural references that stretched from skateboarding to graffiti, Louis P is self-referential. His first collection for LV was heavily inspired by his own personal style—to the point that his own high school varsity jacket was recreated for the runway. The presentation was heavy on showmanship, and P’s likely the only creative director in the history of fashion to close out a runway show by performing his own hit single with Jay-Z.

Regardless of critiques about LVMH's decision to amplify a celebrity's platform, Pharrell's work for Louis Vuitton resonates with many due to his identity. Even if most of us aren’t in the tax bracket to embrace Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton wares, we can at least smile seeing Clipse on the runway. We can still celebrate P for being a symbol of hip-hop and Black culture’s ascension into the realm of luxury. Rihanna and LeBron James’ Louis Vuitton campaigns only emphasizes LVMH’s reliance on Black culture. Will we spend thousands on a suit featuring embroidered art by Henry Taylor? No. But personally, I sure as hell didn’t even know who that artist was until Pharrell’s LV show. Now I plan to visit his Whitney Museum exhibit before it closes this winter. —Lei Takanashi

Martine Rose

Standout Moments: Fall 2023 Pitti Uomo collection, Kendrick Lamar wearing a full Martine Rose look at the 65th Annual Grammy Awards, The Hillbillies collab, being named guest creative director at Clarks, and winning British Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2023 Fashion Awards

Although Martine Rose’s profile has grown over the last few years, her design proposition hasn’t really changed. She’s consistent, using her British-Jamaican background and South London upbringing to guide her collections, which feel anthropological and specific. She typically mines ‘90s club culture, hooliganism, dancehall, and UK B-boys when designing her work, but makes it feel fresh and desirable season after season.

Just take earlier this year, when Rose was named guest designer at Pitti Uomo, an achievement in menswear that usually indicates a brand is culturally relevant and commercially viable. She leaned into the refinement that Florence and Pitti Uomo are known for, but without losing her very cool point of view or her humor. She showed tailored boiler suits with a dry cleaning tag on the sleeve, coats with rounded, hunchback-esque shoulders, sporty jackets styled over classic collared shirts accentuated with a tie, and a bubblegum pink, Michelin Man–inspired puffer jacket with matching faux fur details. Are these looks for everyone? No. But that’s the entire point. And it’s the reason why artists like Kendrick Lamar, who wore a full Martine Rose look from that collection to the Grammys, and Rihanna, who recently wore that pink puffer coat while running around Tokyo, gravitate to her pieces.

Brands want to align with her as well. Just this year she’s released collaborations with Stüssy, and Clarks has brought her on as its first-ever guest creative director—she designed three pairs of shoes for the brand at her London Men’s Fashion Week show this summer. Her collaboration with Nike that kicked off in 2019 is also still going strong. A blue and purple colorway of her Shox-inspired slip-ons inspired by soccer goalie jerseys debuted during her Pitti Uomo show and was later seen on Kendrick’s feet at the Grammys. And while she didn’t land the position, her being an alleged front-runner for the Louis Vuitton men’s artistic director position, which went to Pharrell, shows how significant and influential her brand is. So no, Martine Rose hasn’t changed, but the industry is catching up to her brilliance. —Aria Hughes

Loewe

Standout Moments: Rihanna’s custom Super Bowl flightsuit, Beyoncé’s Renaissance Tour looks, and its Pixelated collection

It’s been 10 years since Jonathan Anderson took the helm as creative director at Loewe, and the Irish designer keeps finding new directions to take the Spanish luxury house that capture our attention. Take its Fall 2023 presentations this year. Models in the men’s show wore jackets crafted out of beaten copper. Other looks incorporated silk boxer shorts, breezy button-down tops, and even angel wings. The pixelated hoodies and T-shirts debuted in the women’s presentation that looked like Minecraft gear brought to life instantly went viral. ASAP Rocky even pulled off a hoodie (no surprise there). Other skirts and cardigans were structured to look like human-sized versions of Polly Pocket clothing. The Spring/Summer 2024 offerings from Loewe built upon the brand’s signature whimsical approach with knit sweaters so big they looked like blankets and hilariously high-waisted trousers. Off the runway, Loewe made headlines with its custom designs for some of music's biggest superstars—a red ensemble for Rihanna’s Super Bowl LVII Halftime Show and a series of looks worn onstage by Beyoncé throughout the Renaissance World Tour. Thank you, Jonathan Anderson, for keeping fashion fun. —Mike DeStefano