Supreme Spring/Summer 2024: the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Supreme Lets Futura Do the Talking

Any diehard Supreme fan knows what’s up when they see that bold handstyle. Futura has been consistently collaborating with Supreme since the beginning. So it was only right to see the New York City graffiti legend grace the brand’s first seasonal collection that marks its 30th year in business. Supreme nerds are likely most excited (or devastated depending on how you look at it) about the return of the Futura Box Logo. Futura’s take on the Supreme’s beloved motif was not widely released, and originally came in just black and white colors at the opening of the Hong Kong store Silly Thing in December 2006. Since they are incredibly hard to find, the OG ones being sold on Grailed right now are listed at as much as $3,000.

Box logo T-shirts aside, Supreme’s also releasing New Era fitteds, embroidered hooded sweatshirts, cotton knit sweaters, and an Alpha Industries fishtail parka with Futura’s graffiti. When looking through these pieces, one can’t help but notice what Futura wrote. It doesn’t seem coincidental that Supreme introduced their lookbook with Futura’s T-shirt reading “You was raised off our shit.” While it could be a coincidence, it does feel aptly timed after Palace dissed the brand when it rolled out its own Spring/Summer 2024 preview two weeks ago. —Lei Takanashi

Supreme’s Nike Air Max Dn Collab Is Underwhelming

The Air Max Dn is the newest innovation in Nike’s iconic Air Max lineage. The Dn is set to make its retail debut on March 26 for Air Max Day. But many people have also been awaiting a first look at the rumored Supreme collab. The Spring/Summer 2024 lookbook gave us just that. Unfortunately, it seems like Supreme sort of phoned this one in. The black colorway has a giant Supreme logo etched across the side in contrasting white dots. That’s it. If it feels familiar, that’s because the last time Supreme was tasked with creating its take on a new Nike sneaker, the Flyknit Lunar in 2013, it essentially did the same exact thing. Obviously, a Supreme collab is supposed to bring energy to the new model. This Air Max Dn will probably excite some people. But if we’re being honest, who really wants “Supreme” written across their sneakers? They almost feel like some Temu special. For what it’s worth, we think the SB Darwin Low collab coming this season is much better. We’ll be going after those instead. —Mike DeStefano

When Will Supreme Cut Pelle Pelle the Check?

If there’s one thing we can expect from Supreme nearly every season, it’s releasing another tough leather jacket that looks like it was pulled right off the racks of Blue Jeans or Genesis in the 2000s. This season, Supreme’s dropping a gem-studded lambskin leather jacket that seems to be inspired by the distinct style of Pelle Pelle coats by Marc Buchanan. Supreme has referenced Pelle Pelle several times over the years—the most notable being the studded “Uptown” leather jacket released in Spring/Summer 2016. At this point, it feels like a proper Supreme x Pelle Pelle collaboration should come to fruition, especially since Pelle Pelle relaunched in 2022. If Palace can collaborate with Avirex, why can’t Supreme link up with the originators that set the mold in the first place? It’s not like Supreme hasn’t done it before. Just peep the brand’s collaborations with B.B. Simon. While this Y2K-esque leather jacket will surely resonate with many, a Pelle Pelle x Supreme piece would truly set the streets on fire. We’re praying to see it happen one day. —Lei Takanashi

Supreme Always Shows Love to Its Lower East Side Roots

Whether it’s Clayton Patterson or Martin Wong, Supreme is always collaborating with talented artists who have historically represented Manhattan’s Lower East Side. It makes sense that Supreme constantly taps into LES culture, since it was born in the neighborhood. This season, Supreme’s giving another iconic Lower East Sider his flowers by releasing a viscose button-up shirt featuring mosaic artwork by Jim Power. Anyone who has spent time around St. Mark's Place or the East Village is familiar with Power’s work. Since 1985, Power has been known as the “Mosaic Man” for decorating the sidewalks of the LES with distinct mosaics found on everything from lampposts to building stoops. The Vietnam veteran and East Village resident quickly became so beloved that the New York City Department of Transportation commissioned him to decorate up to 80 light poles in the East Village in 1988. In 2004, Mayor Bloomberg inducted Power into the City Lore's People's Hall of Fame. Many of Power’s works commemorate historic New York City events, bygone landmarks, and LES institutions. To this day, you can follow Power’s “Mosaic Trail” and see his public art throughout the East Village. —Lei Takanashi

The World’s Game Was a Huge Inspiration

Soccer is the world’s game. So, as Supreme continues to expand its reach around the globe, it only makes sense that it taps into the beloved sport even more for inspiration. Supreme has done plenty of soccer apparel before. They even released a ball with Umbro in 2022. But we couldn’t help but notice the amount of soccer-related pieces that were featured in Supreme Spring/Summer 2024. The best of the bunch are the T-shirt, all-over print jersey, and camp cap honoring late Argentine soccer legend Diego Maradona. You don’t have to be a diehard soccer fan to know how iconic Maradona is. It’s also great to see Supreme officially acknowledge such an important individual from soccer history. This is something they used to do more often with other sports a few decades ago, like the T-shirt featuring NBA legend Patrick Ewing from 2002 or boxer Jake LaMotta in 2006, so it’s cool to see them go back in that direction again for a mini Maradona capsule.

There are also multiple soccer jerseys, matching shorts, and satin tracksuits that nod to classic European soccer style. We aren’t here to give Bloke-core a co-sign or say that you need every single one of these items, but we’re never going to look past a well-executed soccer jersey. —Mike DeStefano

Will the Supreme x Maison Margiela Rumor Come to Fruition?

The unveiling of Supreme’s latest lookbook unfortunately gave us no hints when it came to confirming the biggest Supreme rumor this season: a collaboration with Maison Margiela’s MM6 line. It’s not surprising that Supreme could potentially add another high fashion brand to its long list of collaborators. Within its 30-year history, Supreme has collaborated with everyone from Louis Vuitton to Jean Paul Gaultier—light a candle for that never-released collaboration with Balenciaga. Does a Margiela collaboration make sense for Supreme? Well, yes, to be honest. In a 2013 interview with Hypebeast, James Jebbia did say that he liked the brand but has never read an interview with Martin Margiela or felt the need to. Over the years, many people have also compared Jebbia’s near-radio silence about his label to Margiela’s approach to press, which also leaned heavily on anonymity to let the clothes speak for the brand. One can also argue that while Margiela's clothes were far from the realm of streetwear, he came from a similar place as Jebbia when it came down to being inspired by the streets. Margiela’s debut fashion show in 1989 is collectively revered not just for the clothes but for also being presented in an actual playground on the outskirts of Paris where local kids were sitting front row. That approach is not too different when compared to Supreme using real skaters and New York City kids to model its wares every season. —Lei Takanashi